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Cuenca, Ecuador - Dropping Out |
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Monday, April 17, 2006 As enthusiastic as I felt about Spanish school last week, I felt much less so when the alarm went off at 6:30 a.m. But I got up anyway, and we were out of the room at 7:30, as planned. Because we didn't reserve places, we wanted to get there nice and early in hopes that they would be able to accomodate us. (At La Union in Antigua, unclaimed teachers would show up on Monday mornings anyway, in the hopes of snagging last-minute students like us.) This was the first time we'd been out in Cuenca this early. Everything was closed. We didn't expect to see every shop open, but we had assumed there would be somewhere to get coffee on the way to school, if only that lady on the corner with the thermos. There was not. And when we got to the school, the big wooden doors were locked, so we had time to search some more. Around the corner was a glass-walled restaurant that looked like it was having a breakfast buffet. We've been accustomed to just assuming we can afford any restaurant that's not obviously a swanky spot. So we were a bit surprised when we found that the buffet was $8. Technically affordable, but realistically not so much. We settled for a cup of coffee for Michael and a pineapple juice for me, while the crowd of fancy older gringos in coordinated slacks sets chowed down on bacon and eggs and pancakes and yogurt and some kind of yummy-looking potato croquette thing. Our drinks came to $3.66 which, for us, here, is mindboggling. Back at the school at 8:00, we found the doors open. Two teachers were signing in, and Michael told them we were looking for the "jefe" ("boss"). Ah, Fausto, that's who we wanted. Fausto gets in at 8:00. Great, we thought. Then he should be here in just a few minutes. We sat down to wait. Then someone else told us that Fausto would not be in today, but we could talk to Gabriella, who comes in at 9:00. Ok, fine. We left and strolled around for a few blocks and found an open restaurant called Cafe Olé, where we went in for another breakfast. That's where we met Richard, a solo backpacker from L.A. He had a little American flag on his table because that's the restaurant's little gimmick, asking people where they're from and then putting a flag on their table. How embarassing. Richard was Asian-American, which probably puts him in some frustrating situations in a land where Asian = Japanese. Or maybe Korean. (In Guatemala I recall someone from our school being asked, "Hey, Japon! Japon o Corea?") Breakfast Number Two - eggs (cooked in the shape of little hearts!), bread, cheese, juice, fruit, custard, coffee (for Michael) and tea (for me) came to $4.20. Then we went back to school. I'm not really comfortable asking for la jefa, because it sounds too much like la heffa, which is not good at all. So we asked for Gabriella. It turned out we were talking to Gabriella herself, and she told us that she'd have to speak with the teachers at the break and see if someone was available to take us on. She said that we should come back after 11:00 to find out the verdict and that if the teachers were found, we could study in the afternoon for today and then switch to mornings tomorrow. So we had to leave again. "Do you want to get some more breakfast?" I joked as we walked out. We planned to go back to the room, but on the way, we found a bookstore with an enormous selection of used books in English, so that distracted us for a while. But eventually we got back to the room. With each of the three times we'd walked away from the big wooden doors of the school, I had been feeling less enthusiastic about classes. It's a bit stressful at times, sitting face to face with a complete stranger for four hours. One-on-one tutoring is very hard work and I wouldn't be able to get any projects done in the afternoon if I had homework. I tentatively probed the idea of forgetting the whole school thing, but Michael still wanted to go. "You don't have to go just because I am," he said. "No... I guess I don't. And I could get so much work done while you're at school." "But will you work?" It was a legitimate question, and I considered it seriously. I am one lazy person. Between the chance to sleep late, the television, and all the new books, would I really get any work done? I could, I knew, but would I? Maybe I'd be better off at school. I still have so much to learn. My Spanish is not nearly as good as I'd hoped it would be by now. (*cough*WE GAVE YOU FIVE DOLLARS*cough*). But a week of school would cost me $180, including the registration fee, and I'm running out of money. Also I had planned to do a lot of writing on this trip and these twenty hours alone would be great for that. But Gabriella would be getting a teacher for me, a teacher who would most likey be disappointed that she wouldn't get work, aka money, after all. I hadn't signed anything, but it would be lame of me to back out now. I agonized until time ran out at 11:00. The final choice was literally made with Michael's hand on the doorknob. After making him promise we could go over his work together, I let him go back to the school alone. He signed up and came back with a cute little notebook and a photocopied workbook in a sturdy plastic cover. I was a bit jealous - workbooks are cool - but pretty much content with my decision. And this afternoon while he is in school, I'm actually working. So far so good. The trick now is to keep it up and not fade out by Wednesday and start watching TV all morning. 24 comments so far | Post a comment
Sunday, May 14, 2006 | Megan said...So I know I am way behind, but I am about to be even more behind. Michael and I and our coca leaves and rented sleeping bags are getting picked up at 4:00 am tomorrow morning to start the four-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. We expect to be out of contact until next weekend. Sunday, May 14, 2006 | The "dad' said... You are your own worst critic...stop and smell the roses Sunday, May 14, 2006 | Megan said... All those roses are why I'm so far behind... don't worry, we're making lots of time for ourselves. BTW, we are trekking with United Mice... Sunday, May 14, 2006 | Alie said... Hey, I've been reading your travelogue for the past week oe two. Thought I'd introduce myself and say hi. Also I can't really figure out on the door, but it reminds me of things you'd say in Buenos Aires.. "Chinos... fuera de Argentina" or other things along those lines. ::sigh:: Monday, May 15, 2006 | Billieboy said... Have a safe trek kids, longing to hear about it. I repaired the Flagsip of the Peruvian navy, "Almirante Grau", once. Never got up to Machu Picchu, it's a bit high for normal seafarers! Monday, May 15, 2006 | bequibar said... It looks like it says "Chinos de la verg..." so I can only assume it's "de la verga", which is a derogatory for genitalia, so... you get the picture. Monday, May 15, 2006 | funchilde said... where is the heffa? yeah, them sounds like fighting words. great post. tough decisions abound don´t they? be safe and have fun! Monday, May 15, 2006 | Terence said... have fun in macchu picchu. Thursday, May 18, 2006 | Ville y Paivi said... We just flew into Lima from Honduras and would love to hear your comments on the Salkantay trek. Looks like Inca Trail won´t be possible, so the Salkantay sounds like a good option. By the way, we visited Livingston and had dinner at Maria´s. She´s a bit scary in the way that she´d probably flip if you told her you didn´t like the food. Luckily it was excellent (loved the iced chai latte too) so we didn´t have to test her stability. :) That "Oi!" is a skinhead thing. It´s weird how racism is often thought to be something that only white people are capable of, when the reality is quite different - ecuadorian skinheds seem to think they´re better than the chinese, while they´re not exactly white "aryan" themselves. If you´ve seen the movie Crash, you know what I´m talking about. Friday, May 19, 2006 | Megan said... We survived! And are currently in Aguas Calientes where Internet is expensive (relatively) and slow (actually). But let me just say, Salkantay was AMAZING. One of the top three things I have done on this trip. Well worth the suffering. It was very, very hard for me, though others ran the trail in half the time, freaks that they are, but I did it eventually. The scenery was absolutely spectacular and we were alone on the trail 90% of the time. I recommend United Mice highly. The food was good, service was good, guides were nice, muleteers and cooks seemed happy. One thing to keep in mind is that the people doing the classic trail cannot do the Sun Gate entrance due to a mud slide, so they´re spending the night in Aguas Calientes and going up on the first bus like everyone else. More details to come in the blog, plus amazing pics from Michael. Thanks for the good wishes and translations of the unfortunate grafito. Friday, May 19, 2006 | the "dad" said... glad you made it and glad it was worth it... Sunday, May 21, 2006 | Megan said... One of the best things I have ever done. Tuesday, May 23, 2006 | Molly said... sweet... ya'll are back! i've been waiting patiently and cannot WAIT to see photos and read all about it... sending love... Thursday, June 15, 2006 | balzac said... Man... why the hating on the Chinese? Makes me wary about traveling in S. America. Monday, September 4, 2006 | freddy said... How you doing, I was navigating on internet, and I found this web site. I am from Cuenca; I was borne and raised there, I am a soldier of the United States Army. Just wanting to let you know what the last graffito means. “Chinos de verga” means “fucking Chinese people.” Apparently, that is a Chinese store; probably some drunk’s cuencanos did not have to do and marked that wall. Saturday, February 21, 2009 | Dylan - Emo Boy said... Well I guess your “trick to keep it up and not fade out by Wednesday and start watching TV all morning” (I retype it here because it sounds really imposing) is maybe the efficacious one. Good luck in your way of life and keep being yourself! Monday, July 20, 2009 | Ways to Make Money said... Dropping out is a hard experience for anyone really. Friday, September 4, 2009 | cheap auto insurance quotes said... All those roses are why I'm so far behind... don't worry, we're making lots of time for ourselves. BTW, we are trekking with United Mice... Friday, October 9, 2009 | Lawyers Brahma Lodge said... You Have wriiten a great work sheet , I like this article very much ,its best things I have ever done. Sunday, October 18, 2009 | emo girl said... really nice article. I like your blog. Wednesday, October 21, 2009 | Ganar dinero said... Great Wednesday, October 21, 2009 | Mayrenne said... asdf Sunday, December 6, 2009 | Air Ambulance said... very good story... interesting what you come about when traveling! Thursday, August 12, 2010 | Natural Skin Care said... what a wonderful story, i have never been to ecuador before but it looks like a beautiful place to visit.
| ![]() Cuenca doesn't like the TLC either. ![]() Cuenca. ![]() Lazy... this one does not even make an acrostic. Cuenca. ![]() We noticed this graffito once we managed to get out of the room before ten. Doesn't look too good... can anyone translate? Megan Lyles is a native New Yorker who has also lived in San Francisco. Having already traveled in Eastern and Western Europe, India, Thailand, and the U.S., she is now tackling a one-year bus trip from New York City to the tip of South America with photographer Michael Simon and doing freelance work along the way. She has a degree in social work from NYU and types 85 words per minute. More about Megan. Links Michael's photo blog. |
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