Thursday, January 19, 2006

It was as chill today as it was yesterday. No staring whatsoever and no one wanted anything from us. We just strolled around looking at the sights. There aren’t “sights” per se in town, but it’s all sights for us because it’s our first time in El Salvador. Which is somewhere I never imagined I’d go.

We saw lots of signs for restaurants that sold “sandwishes” which threw my imagination off on a tangent every time. “I wish I was closer to the ocean.” “I wish people wouldn’t put out their cigarrettes in me.” “I wish we were still a rock, member that, guys? Back when we were all still together?”
La Palma is famous for its Llort paintings. Fernando Llort invented El Salvador’s signature souvenir style, simple brightly colored flowers, birds and Jesuses that adorn anything you can imagine: pencil cups, picture frames, keychains, telephone poles, fences. The town is full of workshop/stores that sell Llort-style items.

We found one place that sold plaques with little hooks for keys that said “Donde estan mis putas llaves?” right next to giant paintings of Jesus and the Virgin Mary. Next door we found a shop we really liked and had a nice conversation with the woman there, who said she was part of Llort’s very first collectivo workshop.

Though we stayed in her small shop for at least twenty minutes looking at this and that and asking her questions, neither she nor anyone else even so much as suggested we buy something. It was like a separate planet from Guatemala, where ladies literally chase you down with weaving and kids park themselves at your restaurant table with bracelets.

In Guatemala, even if you do want to look at, say, some pillow covers, you still won’t be left in peace to look. The vendor will throw another one on top of the one you’re looking at, and then another one, and then oh we also have scarves, or huipiles, or tote bags… And they don’t seem to want to pay attention to the types of things you’re drawn to. Why, if I’m examining some antique-looking coins, would you think I might also enjoy a plastic knife that says “Guatemala” on it?

Being here is like stepping out of a dance club and finally being able to hear yourself think. Which is a metaphor I’m using deliberately because I’m aware that there are those who prefer the full-on sensory assault of Club Guatemala. Not me, as you might have gathered. I prefer this laid-back style so much and it will probably end up much more lucrative for the artists. I was really drawn to the Llort style and loved being able to look at everything in the shop at my own pace before buying a big pile of stuff.

In the afternoon we stopped and had some fries from the lady with the papas cart and ate them in the public square in front of the church, where we were left to eat in peace. Fries here come automatically glopped with ketchup, mayo, and Parmesan cheese. The first time it happened to me I was irritated – I prefer to eat my fries plain, or at least add my own choices of condiments. But… mmm. It turned out to be delicious. So far we really like El Salvador though we’ve only seen the one town.

 

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Michael came home from a haircut with his beard trimmed El Salvador style.

Our favorite Llort spot.

Boxes in progress.

Finished Llorts.

La Palma's church.

Papas cart.

Mmm, papas.